Suggested prereading: Blog Buddy Meet-Up #5: The Shores of Lake Superior, Minnesota, USA
With France and Andorra as the focal point of our summer travel, we knew all other adventures would need to be local, and because we’re getting ready to sell the Bobbie (😢), we thought we’d kill two birds with one stone two mosquitoes with one slap (foreshadowing) by combining one final travel trailer trek with a couple of highpointing endeavors.
We made our way to what Minnesotans call the “North Shore of Lake Superior,” what everyone else in the world would probably call the “Southwest Half of the Northwest Shore of Lake Superior,” and what we now call “The Mosquito Coast.”
Arriving at Temperance River State Park, we alighted from our vehicle in woodsy campsite #35 and were greeted by a horde of attack mosquitoes, the likes of which would bedevil us the entire trip. We set up Bobbie as quickly as we could manage, slap-slapping the whole time and yelling at each other to “Keep the damn door closed!”
We then practically ran to the lower campground to meet Diana and Pat, who were lucky enough to have a site near the shore, which was both scenic and practically mosquito-free—a just reward for having to lug a job lot of camping equipment onto a plane.
After some “get to know you, even though I kind of know you” chitchat and our first rousing game of stone skipping, we made for a local lakeside restaurant.
It was there that we plotted our assault on Eagle Mountain and also where I demonstrated the correct technique for eating a hamburger in a way that prevents all most of the toppings from squeezing out the back (a big thank you to An Orcadian Abroad for inspiring me to research and ultimately master this refined and sophisticated approach to burger consumption). Forgetting to get a picture at the restaurant, I got the husband to grill some burgers at home after the trip so I could demonstrate the method. Behold:
Pinkies go under the burger. So simple, yet so effective.
The next day—the day of our long-awaited summit push—I pulled my trademark Early Morning Campground Wake-Up Maneuver:
Adequately coffeed-up, we made the nearly hour-long drive west to the trailhead, where we doused ourselves in bug spray and where I marveled at Diana’s taunting of the hellish buzzers with her brazenly bare shoulders. That girl’s got guts.
For the next 2½ hours, we climbed a muddy Eagle Mountain Trail Trail of Torture as we played an incessant game of Whack-a-Bug, slapping, brushing, and blowing hungry mosquitoes out of our faces, off our necks, and away from our limbs, causing me to silently wonder at the symptoms of West Nile Virus and how long they would take to appear.
Using conversation to distract ourselves from the winged onslaught, the roulette wheel of topics eventually landed on chest freezers. It was at this point that I imparted my most sagacious life advice—a nugget of wisdom that made even the hamburger-holding demo seem pedestrian: never get a chest freezer. Our hiking companions seemed to take the major appliance warning to heart and I do believe that a small upright overflow freezer is in their future, thanks to my intervention.
Near the top there was a scenic viewpoint with enough of a breeze to permit a brief photo stop before we were set upon again and forced to keep moving.
Then it was back into the dense forest for a few more steps through clouds of buzzing blood suckers to reach the actual summit.
I figured Diana would attempt a handstand up there, so I countered with the only move I have: Boat Pose.
In fact, Diana did attempt a handstand, but was she successful?
You’ll have to read her blog to find out.
On the way down, I took the lead and was dismayed to discover that the vanguard bears the brunt of the skeeter army onslaught.
We celebrated our feat with a stop at North Shore Winery, where Pat and I got wine while Diana and the husband went rogue and ordered cider. It was here that fatigue set in and I declared a dire need for a nap. Was it the alcohol, the mosquito-fraught hike, or the onset of Zika Virus? Probably a little of each.
With Minnesota’s highest peak hiked into submission (and hundreds of mosquitoes slapped into oblivion), we said our goodbyes to Diana and Pat the following morning and parted ways. The husband and I weren’t finished with northern Minnesota just yet. We’d dragged our bikes up north with us in order to cycle the state’s highest road. Braving still more bites to break camp, we drove a different route west for nearly an hour, to the exact GPS coordinates of The Middle of Nowhere. Pulling to the side of a deserted dirt road, we exited the vehicle only to be swarmed by a pack of voracious mosquitoes that clearly hadn’t tasted human blood in weeks and made the Temperance River and Eagle Mountain buzzers look like vegetarians.
Plan aborted.
Denied the opportunity to actually cycle his bike, the husband instead cycled through the first four stages of grief (DABDA: denial, anger, bargaining, depression . . .). When he got to acceptance, he sagely remarked,
Everest didn’t give up her secrets on the first attempt. Why should Forest Route Road 103?
the husband
We spent the entire four-hour ride home slapping at stowaway mosquitoes or coaxing them out the windows to what we hoped was a windy death, scratching at real and phantom bites, and discussing the best time for the husband to return north (without me, please) and get his cycling goal out of his system. And though our nightly dreams still morph into terrifying, buzz-laden nightmares, from which we wake sweaty, shaking, and slapping ourselves silly (early signs of Malaria?), there is no question that it was worth risking Dengue Fever to highpoint with blog-buddies-turned-friends, Diana and Pat.
Oh no, Hell no. There’s nothing I detest more than being swarmed by hungry mosquitoes. I would have found the nearest bar and happily waved goodbye to you bunch of hiking blood donors.
As for the coffee wake up call … if you get away with that? Your spouse should be awarded the Nobel peace prize.
😳
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You should have seen the smile that spread across the husband’s face when I read him your comment. I’m sure he was thinking, “Finally, someone gets what it’s like to be married to the Travel Architect!” 🤣
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I love ya… but better him than me.
😉
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I’m so glad (okay, so “glad” isn’t the right word because it was awful) we weren’t the only ones who spent the entire drive back removing mosquitoes from the car. I don’t know where they were hiding but every 20 minutes or so another one would appear. Pretty sure there were probably still a few in there somewhere when we returned the car. I won’t be at all surprised if I find dead ones in our camping gear, too, when I pull it out this weekend.
The good news is, the rest of the summer can’t possibly be more mosquitoey than this was… I hope!
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After reading this himself, Pat would like me to add the following comment: “that post made me itchy”
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Oh yeah? Well tell Pat his comment made me giggly. 🙂
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I hope there wasn’t a “no mosquitoes” clause in your car rental contract. If so, you’ve violated it for sure. Wishing you a mosquito-free rest of your summer!
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The MN state bird is alive and well, I see. My first 20 years of blood donations were in that lake state. 😉 Like your writing. The trail of tears comment, well, over 3000 people died. Might not be a comic comparison…
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Thanks for your comment. Though I think in general people need to stop being offended by every little thing, I can see your point here and I’ve addressed it. Thanks for the catch.
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Great post and catchup. Sorry to hear about those mongrel mozzies. They sounded incredibly annoying AND hungry! Mel
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Thanks, Mel.
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Stumbling onto this late, but not a fan of being bitten so felt the need to chime in. You go girl, and all of that.
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Not late at all. Just published this morning. Thanks for reading!
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Well you’re not selling me on the southern side of the north shore of Superior! I thought massive black flies were always the problem in Northern Ontario (as they call it in Ontario even though it’s more south then Calgary!) But good you had a blog buddy meet up! 😊 Maggie
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Up in the Boundary Waters it can be an evil trifecta of mosquitoes, biting flies, and little no-see-ums. I’ve never experienced that hell personally myself (I was only in the Boundary Waters as a kid and I stayed back with my mom at our rented cabin while the rest of my family went off portaging), but you can’t help but hear the tales when you live ’round here and every third person is a Boundary Waters addict.
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Never heard the term Boundary Waters, sounds like a reality TV show! Either that or a Clint Eastwood type western. 😊
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I believe your country’s Quetico Provincial Park and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, (BWCA) is one gigantic portage-lovers dream divided by an invisible international border.
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Oh likely, other than driving on the highway to Southern Ontario, I’ve only been to Thunder Bay.
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Oh my; those vicious little buggers were relentless! Good call to abandon the bike ride. Seriously though, how fun to have met up with Diana and her husband. I’m a follower of her blog and am sure she performed a handstand worthy of a 10 even from the toughest and most critical of judges! Fun post, minus the mosquitoes.
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Thanks! Mosquitoes aside, it was a fun trip and I’m so happy it worked out for them to join us. I’m looking forward to reading her take on it. As for the handstand . . . you MAY be right. 😉
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‘Was it the alcohol, the mosquito-fraught hike, or the onset of Zika Virus?’ had me lolling. I also appreciate your boat pose but WOW are those mozzies intense. Those bites look sore and they’re basically swarming you in the video. I’d have aborted mission and headed to the nearest spa 🙂
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Yeah, it was like something out of a horror movie. I’d have gone to a spa, too, but there are in short supply up there. It’s just acres and acres of trees and mosquitoes.
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This post made me so itchy! We don’t have many mosquitos where we live but if we did, I could rent myself out for outdoor parties since I would attract them all to my lily white and apparently delectable skin.
Btw, ANYONE can do a handstand but how many can pull off a perfect Boat Pose?
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No mosquitoes where you live? Is a couple of hours enough time for you to get your guest bedroom ready, cuz I’m movin’ in! 😉
Haha – yes, you’d be a hot commodity and you’d make a killing!
Why thank you. A strong core is so important. 😉
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As a mosquito magnet myself, I was commiserating with you in this post. I LOATHE mosquitos, and I wish to the heavens that they don’t exist to suck human blood; the welts I get from them are atrocious! All the same, the hike looked gorgeous and it’s incredible you got to meet another fellow blogger I follow: Diana! Hope you recovered well from the mosquito bites!
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Thanks, Rebecca! The mosquitoes are just a distasteful memory now, from what was otherwise a fun little vacay.
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Seriously, is she one of those people whom mosquitos don’t like? I’m so jealous of those people. Mosquitos love me, the tiny bastards! 😉
What a terrific feat. And where were you before we bought our chest freezer of doom? And why didn’t I read this post before eating hamburgers tonight?! I must remember the pinky rule next time!
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She can do handstands, she’s impervious to mosquitoes . . . is there anything Diana can’t do?!
Ah yes, I knew my wisdom would come too late to save some. The burger knowledge is easy enough to apply at a later date, but the chest freezer? We lived with ours for close to 2 decades before finally making the change. Switching it out for an upright isn’t the easiest task, either. You have to lug the old one up/out and then find some unsuspecting person who doesn’t realize chest freezers are inconvenient black holes of freezer-burned mystery meat to fob the freezer off on. 😉 Sorry the advice came too late for you, but hopefully it will help others.
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Your freezer-get-rid-of scenario sounds totally accurate. “That will be us some day,” I think, whilst wistfully looking out the window…
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When ours went into our basement, we didn’t have a kitchen island. Now we do. That might create some issues. I plan to be out of the house when the husband and his friends remove it. Too stressful.
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Always nice to have some place else to be when the stressful stuff is going down. I get you, sister.
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Despite the apocalypse horde of mosquitos- what a beautiful hike to the highest point and a great meet up of friends. Hopefully the husband unlocks the secrets of biking the high point soon. Sad day about selling the Bobbie though!
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I have faith that the husband will find a way. And yes, we just delivered Bobbie to his new parents yesterday. 😦 The post about the loss is already written up and awaiting publication. Thanks for the acknowledgement.
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This sounds like it was more of a bug-battle than an enjoyable hike. Fun to see you and Diana together anyway!
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It was dang annoying. Having Diana and Pat along made it much more enjoyable. I’m sure bug-induced bickering would have ensued had we been on our own.
Glad your 14ers aren’t mosquito-y like that!
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No, but I spent a week at a lake in Ontario last year (was it?) and it was a constant terror. Between the sunblock and bug spray I felt gooey all the time.
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Ick. Hate that feeling.
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This post had me laughing out loud! The Husband turned around from the couch and questioned my sanity (fair). Also, thank you for validating my thoughts on freezers… we were considering an extra for our garage, given the kitchen freezer is so packed it’s difficult to open most days. One point for me, zero for the Husband.
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Oh, that makes my day! I’m sorry if your image has suffered as a result, though. 😉
As for major appliance purchases, if I save even one person from getting a chest freezer, I can die happy.
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Our kitchen refrigerator is one of those with a chest-like drawer for the freezer below the main compartment. It at least has two baskets to help organize everything, but I have still found mystery meat on more than one occasion. It’s always unsettling.
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HAHA I’m giggling at the fact I inspired you to conquer the true way to hold a burger. Well done!! All those mozzies sound like hell, but despite that it sounds like you had a good trip! And as always, you’ve been able to look back and laugh, which is the important thing. 🙂
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You may already be a travel influencer, but now you can add “hamburger influencer” to your resume. 🤣
We just landed in Toulouse last night. We slept with the windows open and though there were 4 flies that got in, not one mosquito. Vive la France!
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Mosquito bites really suck, pun intended. I am one of those people who gets eaten alive by the bloodsuckers all summer therefore I avoid exploring trails that are near floodwater, ditches and woodland pools. I once read that mosquitos are particularly attracted to those who breathe extra heavily. Long story short – when you’re huffing and puffing uphill during your evening run, the amount of carbon dioxide you’re breathing out is probably the last thing on your mind. But it also happens to be one of the primary ways that mosquitoes use to find people to feed on. Basically, mosquitoes are built to zero in on carbon dioxide, so the more you’re pumping out, the more apparent you are to them. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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So what I hear you saying is “don’t breathe.” Got it! 🙂
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🤣🤣🤣
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