Relationships are often about compromise, and marriage—one of the big kahunas of relationships—is positively brimming with it. So it was that I found myself lodging at a decidedly modest motel in Twentynine Palms, California, a small, dusty desert town 50 miles from Palm Springs on what was supposed to be my after-the-year-I’ve-had-I-want-nothing-but-luxury Palm Springs Luxury Spring Break Trip.
I can’t remember how we settled on Palm Springs for this particular trip—it may have been all the beautiful housesits we’ve drooled over on our petsitting organization’s website—but once we decided to throw in a visit to Joshua Tree National Park and the husband did a little research, I was suddenly being pressed to give up a few days of luxury in the name of teenage dream fulfillment.
You see, Palm Springs isn’t the gateway to Joshua Tree. Twentynine Palms is. Well, that and the town of Joshua Tree itself. But Twentynine Palms has something Joshua Tree does not: the very place U2 stayed back in 1987 prior to the release of their Joshua Tree album, which displays a Joshua tree on the cover—not a Joshua tree from Joshua Tree, but rather a Joshua tree from just outside of Death Valley. (And this, folks, is how you weave the words Joshua Tree nine times into a single paragraph.)
A few summers back while on a Southwest road trip, the husband and I forwent a planned side trip to Joshua Tree National Park in favor of an extra day in sweltering Death Valley. This enabled us to lose half our body weight in sweat seek out and pay reverent forehead-to-dirt homage to the very tree pictured on the cover of U2s aforementioned album.
Staying at the Harmony Motel would complete the husband’s solemn and heartfelt tribute to U2, the band that, to this day, makes him long for his 16-year-old, long-haired, rock-n-roll self. And now, of course, we can claim to be “part of rock history” as the motel website promises.
So stay there we did. But this being COVID times and all, we made sure to nab the stand-alone Jack Kerouac cabin.
When I booked the place, the website said that pool use was on a sign-up basis. (The hot tub, I noted with chagrin as I reluctantly typed in my credit card information, was shuttered.) I generally don’t like to have to schedule fun and relaxation on a trip (or pay full price when major amenities are not available for use), but with the pandemic in play, I knew I had to just grin and bear it. But when we arrived (and COVID case numbers were significantly lower than when we booked) we found this:
Due to the uptick in variant strains, the owner had decided to shut down the pool—the only thing that had gotten me to agree to this place to begin with—in an abundance of caution. I can’t say I blame her, but I was miffed just the same.
Still, the twilight view was nice.
And we enjoyed our morning coffee from this pleasing vantage point.
So that’s the motel. Now let me tell you a little something about Twentynine Palms…
The town is misnamed.
It does not—I repeat, does not—have twenty-nine palm trees. I lost count at 86, but I can assure you the number is in the hundreds. Whether this misnomer was a devious ploy by the city fathers for some nefarious purpose, or whether they simply didn’t understand that plants reproduce, I’ll never know. But if you’re thinking of heading to this Shangri-la because it has exactly 29 palm trees, you’re going to be sorely disappointed.
Don’t let anyone ever say the Travel Architect doesn’t give relevant and useful travel information.
And here’s some more: despite being a bit run down—dare I say dumpy?—Twentynine Palms provided us with a couple of fantastic meals.
This corner of the southern California desert also has its share of quirkiness, which made it more tolerable for me and made the husband—lover of Small Town America—adore it that much more.
The primary reason we carved out a few vacation days here, though, was to explore Joshua Tree National Park.
Unfortunately, we’re out of time, but here’s a tiny taste of what’s to come:
Until next time . . . 🌵
🎵🎵🎵
29 Palms
I feel the heat of your desert heart (Feel the heat of your desert heart)
Taking me back down the road that leads back to you
🎵🎵🎵
The Palm Springs Luxury Spring Break Trip series:
- Part 1: Destination Capitulation
- Part 2: Desolation, Exploration, & Inspiration
- Part 3: Relaxation & Rejuvenation in Civilization
Sounds like a fun trip in spite of Covid. Can’t wait for part 2. 👍
Nick Manning
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Thank you, Nick! It was fun. Fun and, more importantly, relaxing. The relaxing part is coming up in part 3. 🙂
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Fun start to a much deserved vacation. Those ribs look good. I’m looking forward reading about the rest!
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Thank you! Our CDC has recently declared travel – even international travel – low risk for fully vaccinated people (which we are). I hope Canadians can get the same green light soon.
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Sigh, things are bleak over here. Delayed vaccine shipments and more disorganized lockdown measures. They shut down our parks and playgrounds but are allowing crowded warehouses and construction to keep going. No vaccines in sight for our young frontline/essential workers! What a mess… I will be reading about your travels to live vicariously through you!
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That’s insane. I always expect Canada 🇨🇦 and Europe to kick our butts in this type of thing. Go figure. I will do my best to travel for you. It’s so nice to finally have travel to write about.
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I have to say you did compromise a lot, and possibly could demand some type of reward. Funny that I hadn’t heard about the world famous crochet museum before:) Maggie
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Are you a big crocheter?
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Ha ha – no. I couldn’t decide which picture was funnier the museum or the dentist/boot repair 🙂
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We didn’t go in, but could tell that it was about the size of a walk-in closet.
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Despite being born and growing up in southern California, I have never been to Palm Springs, although I’m aware it’s a popular destination for my peers for extended, spring-break kind of trips. I was in Joshua Tree National Park last summer, and I enjoyed my time there; the landscape was certainly not what I’ve seen before, and it amazes me the diversity of my home state’s topography, as well as the small-town feels coming from a big city like Los Angeles. I hope to head to Palm Springs someday– thanks for sharing!
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Is that a thing you try to do when traveling – finding sites for album covers?! Glad you both have a sense of humor. Looking forward to the Joshua trees.
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Nope. Just this one tree. I was dragged along. 🙄
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I am laughing! 😀
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Please don’t tell me that you were in Joshua Tree environs and didn’t go to Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace for BBQ. Although I’ve been to Cadillac Ranch and Slug Bug Ranch, I have never seen Bicyclehenge. This I must correct. (I also haven’t stayed at the Harmony Motel, but I think I can live with that life’s omission.)
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Oh no! Now I have to go back and try those places. Bicyclehenge can be reached by taking that highway that goes through Twentynine Palms. Just take it going east of the town and it’ll be on your right hand side.
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Yep, he owes you BIG TIME!
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He disagrees with you (and me), but we’re two against one, so…
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Strength in numbers and, between the two of us, he is definitely out of his depth! 😃
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Indeed!
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I think quirky about sums it up!
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Well when you travel you don’t always get what you want. Case in point. I trust that the rest of the trip was 5 star accommodations to make up for this -1 star place.
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So true. I was just telling my students that a few days ago! I was probably being too harsh with the motel. It’s a cute little place, but it is pretty bare bones. I guess you stay there for the history. But yes, the latter part of the trip was fab.
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Great pictures and wonderful telling of your trip! How fun to get in touch with your husbands younger rock and roll self with such a tribute to U2. Looking forward to reading your post about Joshua Tree!
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Thanks so much! It was fun to write and, believe it or not, experience. 🙂
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I’m glad you put aside your pride (in the name of love). OK, maybe you still haven’t found what you’re looking for, but hubby did…and that’s the sweetest thing! On New Year’s Day, maybe you’ll have a beautiful day that’s more up your alley!
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Best response ever.
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The sneaky bits of humor in your posts always crack me up 😂 Also, the fiancé (being a dentist but not a boot repairman) got a kick out of the dentistry and boot repair sign
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I don’t know how I missed this comment. You seriously made my day with your compliment. Thank you.
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lovely post….can’t seem to wait to travel again, not sure about how the rest of the world feels right now
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Thank you! If you’re vaccinated, they’re saying it’s safe. 😀
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Great post and great pictures! Sounds like an amazing trip! I have been to the area and have visited Joshua Tree NP, but haven’t spent time in Palm Springs. I’ll have to add it to the list. Tell your hubby that he has great taste in bands! 😀
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I will. He will love that. He will also say, “Of course I do.” 😉
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